Tuesday, November 10, 2009

2004 Valdez Family Zinfandel, Rockpile Road Vineyard

Another big boy here at 16.5% alcohol. However, in my opinion it's not one of my favorites. Even Wine Spectator wasn't too impressed, but then again I don't think much of their ratings anyway. Interestingly enough, this wine is actually crafted by Kent Rosenblum of Rosenblum Cellars who has actually made some of the greatest Zins I have ever tasted, period. So what's the story here? We've got good fruit from Rockpile, a pretty good vintage, and a great architect of wine making. Maybe this vintage just wasn't meant to be for Valdez. Come 2006, the Spectator rated this wine 92 points. I don't know...

Anyway, we have ripe and sweet blackberry and raspberry fruit, some subtle spicy notes and a real meaty texture that will drive you crazy. Dark and jammy on the color with a little bit of grit. It is definitely one of those powerhouse Zinfandels, but it just seems to keep accelerating with no restrictor plate. Even flying around at 8-tenths the speed of sound, I still need the restraints once in a while. Smoke, tar, earth and big fruit. Holy cow! Let me exhale into the breathalyzer.

Some big tannins here that are still present and I just keep coming back to the 16.5% alcohol. This damn kerosene is good enough to run a jet engine. It's huge! Then again, maybe I'm just moving away from these over the top Zins. Perhaps I need to stick with more Pinot, or better yet, Rosenblum Zinfandels. Stay tuned!

Monday, October 19, 2009

2002 Gérard Raphet Chambolle-Musigny "Les Bussières" Cuvée Unique

Now that the seasons are changing and the days are getting shorter and cooler, I always look forward to a nice Pinot Noir. Something about the crispness in the air brings out the reds that I just don't seem to crave during the summer months.

I give you the 2002 Gérard Raphet Chambolle-Musigny "Les Bussières" Cuvée Unique.

Perhaps considered a baby, this particular wine has been in the cellar only about five years, but is interesting to note that the wines from Musigny actually can be drunk relatively young. It is wines from nearby Bonnes-Mares that are usually more full-bodied, tannic and require more years aging before they are mature. Producer Gerard Raphet is famous for producing fruit-driven, aromatically complex and lushly textured old-vine Pinot Noir from some of Burgundy's finest terroirs that have historically proven time and time again that they can age gorgeously. Yes, this one will keep going for many years more, but we just couldn't wait that long. It is actually ready to enjoy now.

In the glass, it is a wine of finesse and elegance. Not too dense or dark, this wine actually exudes pure affluence. This is the way a Pinot Noir should be from Chamboelle-Musigny. Nice.

On the nose, there is an aroma of bright red berries and sweet plums mingling with some light oak spices. Not overbearing and powerful, but more elegant and structured.


In the mouth, it is silky with the impeccable Burgundy balance. Fresh plumbs and raspberries dominate, as well as some backbone and spice which these older vines pull from the region's limestone-rich soils. Subtle hints of oak, licorice and touches of roasted nuts. Caramelly oak and light tannins on the quick finish. Elegant, refined.

Still youthful but enjoyable now.

Monday, August 24, 2009

2002 Behrens & Hitchcock Merlot, Napa Valley

I've been away from the wine scene for a little too long, but getting back into it with this wine was a little disappointing. Now I've heard good things about this Merlot, but unfortunately I think this bottle was either too old, got too warm at one point during its life, or was a dud. Sorry to be a little succinct, but that's my opinion.

A half hour in the decanter and it was time to taste. The nose was hot with cherry aromas and tobacco. I was actually surprised by the intensity of the fumes, and then realized this comes in at a whopping 16.3% alcohol. Color looks good, but definitely not from Saint-Emilion or Pomerol. Plenty of sweet black fruit wafting up from the glass. Yes, definitely loads of fruit. Okay then, let's continue:

In the mouth there was a high level of sweetness, similar to Kirsch and cherry liqueur. As a matter of fact it is virtually all fruit at the moment and super-high in sugar. The high alcohol was throwing me off as well so I must say I was disappointed with this one. There's no oak left and virtually no tannins, so there you go - all fruit. Next time I won't hold my California Merlots as long as I did. At least not this one.